Boat #4 - Terrapin Flyer

Name(s): Alexander and Valerie
Boat Name: Terrapin Flyer
Home Port: Mammoth Lakes, California (USA)
Date of Acceptance: May 18, 2010
Place of Acceptance: French Polynesia

We purchased our girl in September 2009, a Hylas 49 built in 1998. After a couple of very busy months getting her ready to cruise, we set out of San Diego for Cabo San Lucas in mid-November (after the "HaHa"). Even after years of bareboat chartering, this was our first offshore overnight sailing. I can now say we waited way too long to enjoy those serene starry nights - it's just incredible. This was truly the beginning of our adventure. It seemed too perfect and meant to be.

So it was Cabo that started our five months of cruising Mexico, beautiful Mexico. Terrapin Flyer enjoyed her first voyage with us through calm winds and waves. There were many days and nights where she glided through what appeared to be a lake out there without another boat in sight. We like to think she enjoyed the solitude in those days and nights, because it wasn't long before we experienced the Disneyland-like sound of Puerto Vallarta, namely, Paradise Village Marina in Nuevo Vallarta.

Our stops before there were plenty though; La Paz, Mazatlan, Yelapa, La Cruz, Isla Isabela, San Blas, Melaque, La Manzanilla, Barra de Navidad, and the beautiful and coveted anchorage Tenacatita.

Of all the wonderful things Mexico has to offer, their sunsets have yet to be beat. They are beyond stunning and have every shade of orange, red, and yellow you can imagine - usually leaving you with a post-setting perfectly pink sky that illuminates any given anchorage long after your sundowner. So yeah, a margarita and a Mexican sunset hits the top of the list of highlights for Terrapin Flyer so far. Along with fish tacos.

A few fix-its here and there during our Mexico cruising just showed how amazing the Mexican people can be! Always willing to help and very resourceful. We encountered countless smiles and firm handshakes throughout our stops in their beautiful country. They are already missed, but we have to move onward.

And we did. It was on or around April 26th that Terrapin Flyer and crew made its way across the Pacific into the French Polynesia. The crossing was done in 22 days without much to complain about except for repetitious meals of fried vegetables and ramen noodles. Quick stop in the beautiful island of Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas and then on to the Tuamotus - only hitting Rangiroa and Ahe before making the multi-day sail to Tahiti.

By then, we were ready for a real restaurant with air conditioning. We Americans, how spoiled are we? Being the fish-only eaters we are, we were more than thrilled to see tuna (thon) prepared just about every way imaginable on every menu we looked at. Poison Cru (with coconut milk) being our very favourite. That and a baguette is all you need.

A few days at the great Marina Taina to fix a couple of things, we were ready for the Society Islands and ready to see if the hype is for real...yep! They are all equally stunning. Save your pennies and treat yourself to a great meal on Moorea (The Mayflower) or at Také (at the St. Regis on Bora Bora). You deserve it if you've come this far!

Alex had found diving the different passes really exciting and Top Dive continues to be the best operator out there.

A serious cough and head cold kept us boat bound for about a week, but hey, what a place to be sick. A little Vitamin D everyday in the cockpit staring at the peak of Bora Bora was the best medicine.

After getting well, we headed off to Raiatea, Taha'a, and also Huahine. They each offer their own slice of paradise in different ways. Diving on Raiatea, snorkelling at Motu Tau Tau on Taha'a - their coral garden is INCREDIBLE, and then renting a scooter on Huahine and seeing the island in half of an afternoon (or morning for a much cooler ride).

Another side note - we usually aren't much for organized tours, but Vanilla Tours offers an incredible 5 to 6-hour tour of the Island - ethno-botanic oriented and Alain is an awesome guide. If there is room, pull up a mooring outside his place in the Bay if you've booked the tour. The excitement of the 4x4 off-roading gave us the best night of sleep we had in awhile.

On July 10th, we decided to bash back up to Moorea for a peek at the lunar eclipse on the 11th. Well worth the discomfort of 30 knots on the nose most of the night! Coffee in the cockpit that morning with a dozen other boats in Opunohu Bay was certainly memorable. Our cheap eclipse glasses off eBay did the trick, thank goodness.

From Moorea, we bashed on over to downtown Tahiti to the Quay di Yachts where we currently are. Terrapin Flyer is getting a good bath and a little rest while her Captain and his First Mate make a trip back to the States. Such is the life of a part-time cruiser. We have to take paradise in bits and pieces.

So thanks for the opportunity to share, Pea Green. Until next time, fair winds!