Boat #6 - Bamboozle

Name(s): Jamie and Lucy
Boat Name: Bamboozle
Home Port: London, England (United Kingdom)
Date of Acceptance: September 6, 2010
Place of Acceptance: Suwarrow (Cook Islands)

Lucy and Jamie of Sailing Yacht Bamboozle

We were delighted to sign the Little Pea Green Book on the crew of the good ship Bamboozle (a 53' Amel Super Maramu Ketch) in Suwarrow (S13°16' W163°06') in the Cook Islands, and then to carry him for the next 580 nautical miles on to Apia (S13°59' W171°45') in Samoa, and then a further couple of hundred miles on to the wonderfully named Niuatoputapu (S15°57'236" W173°46'242") - known by some cruisers who struggle with the pronunciation as New Potatoes! - in the Kingdom of Tonga.

This beautiful and remote island was catastrophically affected by a tsunami nearly a year ago on September 30, 2009 and despite much hard work it is obvious that the islanders are still struggling to recover. Given the scale of the destruction, it is remarkable that only 10 people were killed (out of a total population of just over 1,000) by the huge wave that engulfed much of the island and destroyed many of the buildings and houses, as well as the boats and crops which provided a livelihood for this community based on fishing and farming.

Despite this recent trauma, the locals are tremendously welcoming and friendly and the island remains a very special spot, cut off from the outside world apart from a weekly small aircraft flight from Nukualofa and the very occasional visit of the supply boat. The supply boat is actually out of service at the moment so the island is in need of the few staples they do not catch or grow themselves, which gives the cruising boats a chance to do something worthwhile arriving with extra supplies of flour and tools, and even giving their labour to help with the construction of so many desperately needed new houses.

At the end of our wonderful stay in Niuatoputapu, we sailed on south to the Vava'u Group just in time to join in with a regatta and cruising rendezvous in Neiafu (S138°39' W173°59') which brought together many of the boats and friends we have met over the last few  months while crossing from Panama. As the Pea Green Book is fast learning, it doesn't need much of an excuse for cruisers to get together for a celebration and a week of races, fancy dress competitions, pub crawls...and a huge full moon party exhausted even the most dedicated and hardcore revellers.

We still have many islands and bays to explore here in Tonga, but in just 3 or 4 weeks time, we will be heading on towards New Zealand for the summer and to avoid the South Pacific cyclone season. We have had a magical year cruising across the Pacific and it has been a pleasure to have the Pea Green Book aboard for a small part of the trip.

After 6 years, we're not sure when we will be back to the "real world", but for more info, our blog is www.blog.mailasail.com/bamboozle. Enjoy!

Boat #5 - Pincoya

Name(s): Gene and Gloria
Boat Name: Pincoya
Home Port: Salt Lake City, Utah (USA)
Date of Acceptance: End of June 2010
Place of Acceptance: Pape'ete, Tahiti (French Polynesia)

Our decision to go to sea was made in 2008. A year later we bought Pincoya, a 1995 44-foot Island Packet, in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico (Pincoya's name stands for a Chilean Sea Goddess of Fertility). In March 2010, we headed to the South Pacific, after never having spent more than 1 or 2 nights at sea.

After spending 6 weeks in the Marquesas and a month in the Tuamotos, we picked up the Little Pea Green Book in Pape'ete Tahiti (S17°32'06" W149°34'11"). By the time we left French Polynesia, we had spent 4-1/2 months there.

We never had planned or thought we would be living this kind of adventure. Gene and I had spent much of our prior life whitewater rafting, canyoneering, backpacking, hiking, skiing, and snowshoeing. While we had adventures and exciting times, it does not compare to what we have experienced and enjoyed in the South Seas. Adventures like...

During the crossing, our spinnaker wrapped, our genoa needed repair, and our gooseneck came loose from the mast. Gene had to go overboard at sea to cut loose fishing line from the propeller. In 25-knot winds from Hiva Oa to Fatu Hiva, our furler screws came out and we could not reel in the genoa.

In Makemo (S16°33'545" W143°42'257"), we had our first scare of our life when we almost hit a coral head and later Gene had to dive 60 feet to retrieve our anchor wrapped around a coral head. We experienced going through surf waves in the narrow passé Teavamoa at the SE end of Raiatea (S16°55' W151°25') and landed Pincoya on a coral reef shelf in Baie Hotopuu.

In Tahaa (S16°36' W151°30'), we anchored on 20 feet and swung over the 8-foot coral reef in high winds. As we left Bora Bora (S16°30'015" W151°44'294") to head for Suwarrow, we had our most exciting time when winds reached 52 knots with rain coming down in dumpsters! Even though we dropped sails, we had 3 tattered sails to repair in Suwarrow (S13°16' W163°06').

September 4, 2010, we anchored in Suwarrow, the most wonderful place we have been thus far, a Disneyland for cruisers. Suwarrow is a national park under the control of the Cook Islands and this is where we passed off the Little Pea Green Book.

James and Apii are the caretakers who have taken the cruisers fishing, spear fishing, coconut crab hunting, and lobster gathering followed by potlucks to eat the catch of the day or night. And the snorkelling is great here. We are having the time of our life enjoying all the islands and atolls with Samoa, American Samoa, Tonga, and New Zealand still in sight for this season.

We have met so many fellow cruisers and made friends on other sailboats...where else can you have your neighbours and friends move with you!

For sailing adventures and photos of Gene and Gloria on SV Pincoya, visit their blog at www.sailblogs.com/member/smilin1.

Boat #4 - Terrapin Flyer

Name(s): Alexander and Valerie
Boat Name: Terrapin Flyer
Home Port: Mammoth Lakes, California (USA)
Date of Acceptance: May 18, 2010
Place of Acceptance: French Polynesia

We purchased our girl in September 2009, a Hylas 49 built in 1998. After a couple of very busy months getting her ready to cruise, we set out of San Diego for Cabo San Lucas in mid-November (after the "HaHa"). Even after years of bareboat chartering, this was our first offshore overnight sailing. I can now say we waited way too long to enjoy those serene starry nights - it's just incredible. This was truly the beginning of our adventure. It seemed too perfect and meant to be.

So it was Cabo that started our five months of cruising Mexico, beautiful Mexico. Terrapin Flyer enjoyed her first voyage with us through calm winds and waves. There were many days and nights where she glided through what appeared to be a lake out there without another boat in sight. We like to think she enjoyed the solitude in those days and nights, because it wasn't long before we experienced the Disneyland-like sound of Puerto Vallarta, namely, Paradise Village Marina in Nuevo Vallarta.

Our stops before there were plenty though; La Paz, Mazatlan, Yelapa, La Cruz, Isla Isabela, San Blas, Melaque, La Manzanilla, Barra de Navidad, and the beautiful and coveted anchorage Tenacatita.

Of all the wonderful things Mexico has to offer, their sunsets have yet to be beat. They are beyond stunning and have every shade of orange, red, and yellow you can imagine - usually leaving you with a post-setting perfectly pink sky that illuminates any given anchorage long after your sundowner. So yeah, a margarita and a Mexican sunset hits the top of the list of highlights for Terrapin Flyer so far. Along with fish tacos.

A few fix-its here and there during our Mexico cruising just showed how amazing the Mexican people can be! Always willing to help and very resourceful. We encountered countless smiles and firm handshakes throughout our stops in their beautiful country. They are already missed, but we have to move onward.

And we did. It was on or around April 26th that Terrapin Flyer and crew made its way across the Pacific into the French Polynesia. The crossing was done in 22 days without much to complain about except for repetitious meals of fried vegetables and ramen noodles. Quick stop in the beautiful island of Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas and then on to the Tuamotus - only hitting Rangiroa and Ahe before making the multi-day sail to Tahiti.

By then, we were ready for a real restaurant with air conditioning. We Americans, how spoiled are we? Being the fish-only eaters we are, we were more than thrilled to see tuna (thon) prepared just about every way imaginable on every menu we looked at. Poison Cru (with coconut milk) being our very favourite. That and a baguette is all you need.

A few days at the great Marina Taina to fix a couple of things, we were ready for the Society Islands and ready to see if the hype is for real...yep! They are all equally stunning. Save your pennies and treat yourself to a great meal on Moorea (The Mayflower) or at Také (at the St. Regis on Bora Bora). You deserve it if you've come this far!

Alex had found diving the different passes really exciting and Top Dive continues to be the best operator out there.

A serious cough and head cold kept us boat bound for about a week, but hey, what a place to be sick. A little Vitamin D everyday in the cockpit staring at the peak of Bora Bora was the best medicine.

After getting well, we headed off to Raiatea, Taha'a, and also Huahine. They each offer their own slice of paradise in different ways. Diving on Raiatea, snorkelling at Motu Tau Tau on Taha'a - their coral garden is INCREDIBLE, and then renting a scooter on Huahine and seeing the island in half of an afternoon (or morning for a much cooler ride).

Another side note - we usually aren't much for organized tours, but Vanilla Tours offers an incredible 5 to 6-hour tour of the Island - ethno-botanic oriented and Alain is an awesome guide. If there is room, pull up a mooring outside his place in the Bay if you've booked the tour. The excitement of the 4x4 off-roading gave us the best night of sleep we had in awhile.

On July 10th, we decided to bash back up to Moorea for a peek at the lunar eclipse on the 11th. Well worth the discomfort of 30 knots on the nose most of the night! Coffee in the cockpit that morning with a dozen other boats in Opunohu Bay was certainly memorable. Our cheap eclipse glasses off eBay did the trick, thank goodness.

From Moorea, we bashed on over to downtown Tahiti to the Quay di Yachts where we currently are. Terrapin Flyer is getting a good bath and a little rest while her Captain and his First Mate make a trip back to the States. Such is the life of a part-time cruiser. We have to take paradise in bits and pieces.

So thanks for the opportunity to share, Pea Green. Until next time, fair winds!

Boat #3 - Serenity

Name(s): Gordon and Sherry
Boat Name: Serenity
Home Port: Ventura, California (USA)
Date of Acceptance: Mid-March 2010
Place of Acceptance: Nuevo Vallarta, Baja California Sur (Mexico)

It was in Banderas Bay - Paradise Marina in Nuevo Vallarta - that Pea Green came into our possession and this is where our tale begins (N20°41' W105°17').

On a beautiful sunny Saturday at 08:00, SV Serenity left La Cruz de Huanacaxtle (N20°44' W105°22') and sailed SW on the big crossing to the Marquesas. She was met with great days of favourable winds, but also encountered some days of flat calm. There were squalls, some with winds gusting to as much as 30 knots and some squalls that brought no wind changes at all.

Like the weather, which could change at a moment's notice, the sunrises and sunsets appeared more majestic each day. The stars were so beautiful and so plentiful that night watches were looked forward to with anticipation. There were phases of the moon which you might never have known existed. It can’t be denied that these ever-changing views were anything less than dramatic.

The crossing was not all joy. There were the episodes of mal de mer (seasickness) and the almost unavoidable bruises, cuts, and burns. Those injuries are the real tattoos that go along with the rise in rank to shellback (one who crosses the equator).

It took 22 days to cross the Pacific from La Cruz to Atuona (S09°50' W139°01') at Hiva Oa. We chose a rum line from about N20° to N08° latitude, then at longitude W127°, we headed south to cross the ITCZ and the equator. Our crossing of the equator was in the dark, so our only celebration was to sacrifice a dram of Tequila overboard to Poseidon, God of the Seas, and to take a picture of our chart plotter. We were disappointed that we could not swim across, but the sea and winds would have made it too dangerous.

The Marquesas consists of several islands, part of French Polynesia. Tahauka Bay at Hiva Oa, one of the islands, was our first landfall. It was a great place to anchor (bow and stern) because in addition to the beauty and the amenities it was a port of entry. The gendarmes (French Police) were friendly and the check-in went smoothly.

Some hints: The gendarme’s office is closed for lunch and on weekends. Don’t miss the soft serve ice cream cones in one of the magasins (stores). The cheeseburgers at Snack Maki-Maki were good and a delightful touch of home.

Sherry and Gordon aboard SV Serenity

After leaving Tahauka Bay, we visited Hanamenu Bay (NW side of Hiva Oa - S09°45' W139°08') and later Henaiapa Bay. They were both beautiful to see, but they were rolly anchorages and we were happy to head off to Fatu Hiva's Hanavave, also known as the “Bay of Virgins” (S10°27' W138°40'), which was breath-taking (Fatu Hiva is the most southerly of the Marquesans). The spires, the greenery, and the 300' waterfall were intense and not to be missed. We had dinner at Serge’s house with five other couples. For $17.00 US/person, we had a great dinner of the traditional faire: poisson cru, roasted chicken, papaya salad (green papaya), rice, cooked bananas, and sweet pamplemousse for dessert.

Again on the move, we set sail for Tahuata, a smaller island between Hiva Oa and Fatu Hiva . It was here in Vaitahu “Resolution Bay” (S09°55' W139°08') that Gordon got a tattoo (his first). Fati is said to be the best tattoo artist in the Marquesas and he did a great job on Gordon’s upper left arm. I declined, content to settle for those scars left from the banging around I got on Serenity. Those are my true badges of courage, honour, and insanity for being at sea so long.

We bipped around the corner on Serenity to the most gorgeous anchorage with clear blue water. Just to prove it was so clear and pretty, Gordon and I got our first real sunburn - pain, itch, and peel (the works). It was hard to leave the water and outdoors. A large group of manta rays welcomed us one morning swimming through the bay. The name of the bay was Hana Moe Noa (S09°55' W139°06').

Our next stop of Ua Pou, NW of Hiva Oa, was a letdown. We were unable to spend more than one night on the hook at Hakahau Bay (S09°21' W140°02') because there were two barges and a tug boat taking up most the anchorage. They were very nice and told us where to lay our anchor for the night, just warning us we would have to leave early the next morning. I’m speaking of the crew of course.

We picked up our anchor at 07:00 the next morning and headed to Nuku Hiva, north of Ua Pou. Here is something not to miss in the town of Taiohae (S08°54'35" W140°06'05"): the homemade crepes and the homemade ice cream. Right near the dinghy dock there is a van where a young woman sets up shop most days at 11:30. And the brick oven pizza restaurant is also a must try with not only great pizza but also great salad. Dinner here is guaranteed to help you find your happy place.

Daniel’s Bay about five miles away was our next destination. Shortly after laying our anchor there and seeing that it was securely set, we headed off for a hike to the waterfall. Beyond the first pool at the “Cascade”, there is a second pool behind the rocks that is even better. The eels leave you alone and the crayfish are harmless! There’s a cave and a magnificent waterfall, quite worth the hike. We were extremely tired and sore from trekking over the rocks. After a good night's sleep and another day or two, we left the Marquesas behind and were off to the Tuamotus, another group of islands.

If anyone asked us, we’d say don’t miss the island of Manihi (S14°24' W145°56'). It is beautiful, and Xavier, who works the sailmail station there, and Fernando, who seems to do everything else, made our visit awesome.

Fernando gave us a very informative tour of his family’s pearl farm. Here we traded for black pearls. We even opened our own oysters that we plucked from the lines (with Fernando’s help of course). The next day we went diving and snorkelling with him along the pass and beyond. We had a great Sashimi lunch at his home and headed back to the boat.

When we planned to leave, it was raining, making it too dangerous to thread our way out through the coral heads. On a good and happy note, Fernando brought us two of the best tasting fresh and warm baguettes to the boat. He asked Gordon to go grouper fishing with him, but Gordon stayed to do chores.

We left Manihi heading for an overnight passage to Rangiroa atoll (S15°09' W147°35') where we ended up staying for 6 days - hiking, biking, swimming, snorkelling, and relaxing. Rangiroa was a bit more touristy than Manihi but it was a nice change.

Then we had to motorsail all the way to Pape'ete, Tahiti (S17°32'06" W149°34'11"). How exciting it was to see the tall spires of Tahiti rising over the horizon. As we approached Pape'ete harbour, we had to call the harbour control to get clearance to enter. We also had to get clearance to pass the two ends of the airport runway which was right at the water's edge. We med-moored to the cement quay and were in Tahiti - we made it!

We passed Pea Green on to Alex and Valerie on SV Terrapin Flyer in Pape'ete...

If you wish to follow Sherry and Gordon's continuing adventures, check out their blog:  www.sailblogs.com/member/serenity2009

Boat #2 - Adios III

Name(s): Steffanie, Charlie, Emily and Christopher
Boat Name: Adios III
Home Port: Texada Island, BC (Canada)
Date of Acceptance: January 2, 2010
Place of Acceptance: Los Frailes, south tip of Baja California Sur (Mexico)

Steffanie and Charlie, with their daughter Emily and son Christopher, graciously took Pea Green on its next journey, including Mazatlan, Isla Isabella, San Blas, Chacala, La Cruz, and Puerto Vallarta.  As Charlie had to fly home, Steffanie and the kids had the following adventure on terra firma with Pea Green:

It was great fun arriving by Panga as we see them all the time but never get to ride in one.  We stopped at a couple of beaches on the way to let people off in the surf! Once we arrived at Yelapa, we quickly found our way to the Spanish school and our home-stay family.

What a wonderful experience! Juanita taught us for 3 hours every morning and then escorted us on a variety of activities in the afternoon: hiking to the waterfalls, crayfishing in the river, and exploring the village itself. The local people were so welcoming and patient with our poor Spanish.

Our host family not only fed us wonderful Mexican meals but also helped us practice our Spanish daily. We all laughed a lot during the week!

To finish off the trip, we headed into the mountains of San Sebastian, a beautiful colonial town 3 hours from Puerto Vallarta. Juanita was guide, teacher, and translator as we visited the famous hacienda and hiked to the tip of the Buffa. There we stood, looking down at Puerto Vallarta miles away!

(A Buffa is a big hill with cliffs that you hike to the top of and can look in a 365° circle. You can see the highlands and you look down on Puerto Vallarta so it is quite stunning. Interestingly, two states are arguing over it so they can't do anything in terms of development - mines or forestry, both of which are active in the area - so the area is protected for now. Some people would like to make it a park and preserve it for future generations which would be a really great solution.)

As we wound our way back down the highway, we said goodbye to the mountains and let our thoughts turn once again towards our little boat and the sea. Our plans are to sail in the Sea of Cortez this summer, practice our Spanish, and then head off someplace new next winter!

Adios III anchored off Los Frailes, Baja California Sur (Mexico)

To follow adventures of the Groves family on board Adios III, see their blog at www.adiosgroves.blogspot.com.

Hosts of the next leg of Pea Green's journey is SV Serenity heading to the South Pacific.

Boat #1 - Sea Turtle IV

(Maiden voyage for both Pea Green and Sea Turtle IV)

Name(s): Jordan and Judy
Boat Name: Sea Turtle IV
Home Port: Victoria, BC (Canada)
Date of Departure: September 24, 2009
Route: Victoria, BC (Canada) to Los Frailes, S tip of Baja California Sur (Mexico)

As the honourary initiate of "Pea Green Book's Great Big Journey" here is our entry for the 1st leg of its journey:

Our most memorable experience? Probably the hair-raising Columbia River bar crossing by Astoria Oregon (N46°13' W123°56'), notoriously the most dangerous bar crossing in the world - second only to the Yangtze bar crossing. Or, maybe the midnight spectacle of phosphorescent streaks from the school of dolphins cavorting around Sea Turtle as it surged past Point Conception California (N34°26'526" W120°28'191").

However, we won't forget being hit by the 80-knot wind gusts from a twister spawned during a storm while we were at anchor in front of the San Diego Yacht Club (N32°42'597" W117°13'509") .

Then getting to the areas of sun and sandy beaches with crystal clear waters was a welcomed site.

Our plans are to circumnavigate west-about, and who knows, we might cross paths with other sailors who hosted the Pea Green Book on its Great Big Journey!

Check out our blog at www.turtlemail.blogspot.com for more details of our personal travels.