Boat Name: Libertad
Home Port: Santa Barbara, California (USA)
Date of Acceptance: November 11, 2013
Place of Acceptance: Johor Bahru (Malaysia)
I'm happy to be meeting new people and enjoying the hospitality of Dennis and Virginia aboard Libertad, an Amel Maramu. This is my third Amel so I'm getting to know my way around these boats!
On November 16, we left Johor Bahru and sailed with the Sail Malaysia Rally along the west coast of Malaysia. During our exploration of Indonesia (aboard Jackster), we hadn't spent any time in marinas. Neither did Libertad. Conversely, Malaysia Rally stops were all in marinas with docks, facilities, etc. Dennis and Virginia got a bit spoiled not having to spend days locating groceries and supplies as information about the local area was available with a trip to the marina office.
Nearly every marina had arranged a tour of the local area and a group dinner. I didn't go along on these excursions but was happy to see the crew return refreshed and invigorated. Here are a couple of our trip highlights.
One day on a passage between marinas, we sailed up an estuary to anchor by Bernam. There was a big concrete bird hotel accompanied by considerable racket from the chirping residents. I was dismayed when told that they used these hotels to capture birds for selling (the birds can check in anytime they like but they can never check out). But another cruiser said that the hotels were to provide nesting space and that the nests were harvested for bird's nest soup after the birds had left. The latter story is more sustainable, so I hope it is the truth.
In Pangkor, Dennis and Virginia took a tour that visited a traditional shipbuilding operation. They were impressed that the sixty-some-year-old architect used only his eyes for shaping and alignment of the structure but dismayed for having viewed a dying art as he had no apprentice to continue the trade.
US holidays of Halloween and Thanksgiving were celebrated with other international cruisers wondering what the holidays were all about.
The Malaysian Strait is wide and shallow. The tidal flow of the Strait dictates passages as you may have a 2.5-knot flow working for you or against you, and it may also dictate when you enter or leave a marina. Leaving Pangkor Marina in the early morning dark, we got stuck on muddy shoal. By the time the dinghy was deployed to find the channel, the tide had receded beyond our ability to kedge off.
As we waited for the flood tide, the boat listed a 30 degree tilt to starboard. Dennis decided to scrub the well-exposed port side waterline. With her Kindle in her lap, Virginia sat on the deck smiling and waving to the boats of curious locals that passed by.
One group stopped and took pictures, commenting on our unique approach to hull maintenance. We accepted the compliment pretending it was all intentional. That night, we anchored in shallows out of the commercial traffic lanes but miles from any shore. It was eerie, but an appropriate end to that exciting day.
Penang was not a scheduled stop on the Rally but that is where Visas for Thailand are obtained so the crew of Libertad was destined to visit that Malaysian island. There was no room at the marina on Penang, so we continued north enjoying good wind and 2 wonderful days of sailing on to Langkawi, the final Rally stop. The crew took a "fast" ferry back to Penang to do some sight seeing and to arrange Visas.
As usual, I was left on the boat to entertain myself, but to be honest, I don't mind at all. These cruisers love the water - kayaking, snorkelling, a cool rain shower, and bumpy, splashing rides in little boats like the fast ferries to Penang. Like the Wicked Witch of the West, I'd rather stay as far away from the water as possible, thank you.
They couldn't wait to note on my pages about the wonderful time they had, especially because some of their son's friends/work associates living in Penang honoured them by serving as local guides. After a few activities on Langkawi and one more "gala dinner" hosted by the Rally, the boats started heading out in their separate directions.
Dennis and Virginia in back row
I could tell it was a sad time for many as they said goodbye to new friends they had made in the last year of cruising Indonesia and Malaysia. Dennis and Virginia had mixed emotions as they were anxious to get underway to Thailand; from there they would fly to the US for a 2-month vacation back home in California for the Christmas holidays.
In just a few hours, we were cruising past the dramatic limestone islands of Thailand that push straight up from the sea in very interesting shapes covered with lush vegetation. We spent 2 days cruising among the southern islands before entering Yacht Haven Marina on the northern coast of Phuket Island. Only a few days later, their 3rd year of cruising the world had ended with a flight to the US and leaving me to myself for 2 months.
When they arrived back on the boat in mid-February of 2014, it was quite a relief to have them open up the boat and turn on some fans as the weather had gotten quite warm and I feared I might spontaneously ignite! We moved the boat to Boat Lagoon Marina to await the arrival of the freighter that would give Libertad a ride to the Mediterranean Sea.
I knew my time with them was coming to an end as they had promised to leave me in Thailand where I could be picked up by Judy and Jordan of SV Sea Turtle who had started me on this adventure. I watched as they kept busy with boat projects to keep their minds off the fact that the freighter kept experiencing delays.
Finally on April 5th, we sailed Libertad out to the freighter. When the crane started lowering to hook up the boat, we jumped off and were dinghied ashore to Ao Po Marina. I had been on Libertad for almost 5 months.
They took me with them on their air flight to Chiang Mai and on April 11, 2014 put me in the mail back to Marieke of Yacht Haven Marina in Phuket who would hold me for Judy and Jordan of Sea Turtle.
You can follow Libertad's adventures at www.sailblogs.com/member/sb-johns as I continue on with other sailors.
